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(12) Murghab and the eastern Pamirs

My Tajik colleagues tell me the term "Pamirs" is incorrectly used by foreigners. Applied by us to all mountains in eastern Tajikistan, this term obscures a signficant contrast in mountain morphology. The western Pamirs (where I live) have deeply incised, U-shaped valleys most recently carved by westward-bound valley glaciers. Valley floors are ~2500m and mountain peaks rise to ~4500m. However, the eastern Pamirs form a 4000m plateau with broad flat valleys between ranges that rise to 5000m (or higher). Too cool and arid to sustain agriculture, the eastern Pamir has widely-spaced small villages where people, many of nomadic Kyrgyz heritage, tend to herds of goats, cattle, and yaks. Where cars and trucks cannot travel, horses, donkeys, and even camels are used for off-road transport. This lovely desolate plateau, labeled the Murghab district, is more traditionally called the "Pamir".

I traveled through Murghab last weekend to see if it's a worthwhile destination for geology field trips. Accompanied by UBC geologist Ozlem Suleyman and our driver, Yusuf Bakhtaliev, we drove across the high plateau while making occasional stops to inspect bedrock outcrops. Yusuf knew the region and provided advice on lunch stops and scenic side roads. We drove to the town of Murghab, just 50 km from the Chinese border, and slept for two nights in a homestay. Our host was well-connected in the community and took us to meet the First Vice Chairman of the Murghab district, who was enthusiastic about the prospect of future geologists discovering mineral deposits in the region. After two days of fieldwork we found that the Murghab district has a full spectrum of rock types, making it suitable for field training. Still, it's a harsh environment - already 5°F at night and always short of oxygen. It's unclear if all students could withstand the conditions to focus on the rocks.



Eastern Alichur Valley, Murghab district, Tajikistan

View from a mountain pass @ 4200m (13,800'), eastern Pamirs

Chinese imports headed to Tajik markets along the Pamir Highway

Village of Alichur, Murghab district, Tajikistan

Unlike Ismaili Muslims elsewhere in the Pamirs, Muslims of Kyrgyz heritage use mosques as a place of worship

Closed basins and evaporative lakes....this could be the Altiplano of South America

Ozlem and Yusuf enjoy a lunch of bread, yak butter, yak yogurt, jam, goal liver/heart, potatoes, cookies, candy, and tea w/sugar

Chilly sunrise over the town of Murghab. Electricity was restored this summer after a year-long blackout, but most people still heat with coal

Late-season glacial meltwater from the high Pamir, now meandering along the valley floor

Tending a yak herd in the eastern Pamir, at an elevation of 12,000'


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